Bifana (Portuguese Pork Sandwich)

Method

1. 1Slice the pork loin into cutlets 3 to 4 mm thick. If you are cutting them yourself, freeze the loin for 30 minutes first. Thicker slices go tough, thinner ones dry out in the pan.
2. 2Slice the garlic thin with a knife rather than crushing it. Minced garlic burns in the pan; sliced garlic softens into the sauce.
3. 3Mix half the wine with the garlic, paprika, bay leaves, piri piri sauce, salt and pepper, add the pork and turn it so every slice is coated.
4. 4Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, overnight if you can. This is where the flavour comes from, not from the cooking.
5. 5Lift the meat out and keep the marinade. Melt the lard in a wide pan over medium-high heat and fry the slices in batches, about a minute a side, until browned. A crowded pan steams the pork instead of colouring it.
6. 6Return all the meat to the pan, pour in the marinade and the rest of the wine, and simmer on low for 10 to 15 minutes until the garlic slices are soft and the sauce has reduced.
7. 7Split the rolls and toast the cut sides briefly, keeping the inside soft. Spoon sauce onto both halves, pile in one or two cutlets, add more sauce and a smear of mustard. Eat immediately.