Chicken Biryani

Method

1. 1Marinate the chicken. Combine yogurt, Kashmiri chilli powder, garam masala, ground coriander, turmeric, ginger-garlic paste, and salt. Score each chicken piece two or three times to let the marinade penetrate. Add chicken, coat thoroughly, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours — overnight is better. The scoring and the yogurt acid together mean the spices reach the bone, not just the surface.
2. 2Fry the onions (birista). Heat 3 tablespoons of ghee or oil in a wide heavy pan over medium heat. Add the sliced onions. Fry, stirring every few minutes, for 20 to 25 minutes until deep golden-brown and beginning to crisp. They will look too dark before they're done — this is correct. Drain on paper towels immediately; they crisp as they cool. Reserve the flavoured oil in the pan. Divide the fried onions in half: one half goes into the chicken, one half is used for layering.
3. 3Cook the chicken masala. Return the onion-oil pan to medium heat. Add the marinated chicken and all its marinade. Cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 8 minutes until the chicken firms up. Cover and cook for another 15 minutes until the chicken is almost fully cooked and the masala is thick and saucy. Stir in half the fried onions. The masala should cling to the chicken rather than pool under it.
4. 4Par-cook the rice. Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil — use at least 2 liters of water and 1 tablespoon of salt. Add the bay leaves, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, and cumin. Drain the soaked rice and add to the boiling water. Cook on high heat, stirring gently once or twice, for 5 to 6 minutes until the rice is 75% cooked: a grain should be soft outside but have clear resistance in the center. Drain immediately. Do not let the rice sit in the hot pot — it will keep cooking.
5. 5Layer and dum cook. In a large heavy-bottomed Dutch oven or pot, spread the chicken masala in an even base. Spoon half the par-cooked rice over the chicken in an even layer. Scatter half the remaining fried onions, half the mint and coriander, and half the saffron milk. Add the rest of the rice, then the remaining onions, herbs, and saffron milk. Sprinkle garam masala over the top. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of ghee. Cover the pot tightly with foil first, then the lid. Cook on high heat for 3 minutes, then reduce to the lowest possible heat and cook for 25 minutes. Turn off the heat and rest for 10 minutes without opening. Open, gently fold the layers together using a wide spatula, and serve with raita.