Lagman

Method

1. 1Make the dough. Put the flour in a large bowl, make a well, and add the beaten egg, 220 ml warm water and 1 teaspoon of salt. Stir into a shaggy mass, then knead on the counter for a full 10 minutes until the dough is smooth, firm and springs back when pressed. Cover with a bowl or film and leave it for 30 minutes — this is a rest, not a rise: there is no yeast, but the gluten needs the time to relax or the strips will snap instead of stretching.
2. 2Shape and boil the noodles. Roll the dough out 2–3 mm thick and cut it into strips about 7 mm wide. Rub your hands with oil, take each strip by both ends and stretch it gently to about twice its length, letting its own weight help; it should thin to roughly 3–4 mm. Boil in plenty of salted water for 3–4 minutes, until the noodles float and are chewy with no raw core, then drain and rinse in cold water so they do not stick together. Toss with a spoonful of oil and set aside.
3. 3Prepare the meat and vegetables. Cut the lamb into 1.5 cm cubes, trimming any sinew. Cut the carrot, sweet pepper and radish into thin batons, the potatoes into 1.5 cm cubes and the cabbage into strips. Slice the onions into half-rings, chop the tomatoes and finely chop the garlic. Everything goes into the pot quickly once you start, so have it ready.
4. 4Brown the meat. Heat the oil in a heavy pot or kazan over high heat until it shimmers. Add the lamb in a single layer and fry for 7–8 minutes without stirring too often, until the pieces are browned on several sides. Browning is where the flavour of the sauce comes from; crowded, pale meat gives a flat, grey vaja, so fry in two batches if your pot is small.
5. 5Add the vegetables and spices. Add the onions and fry for 3 minutes until they soften, then the carrot, sweet pepper, radish and garlic, and cook for another 5 minutes, stirring. Sprinkle in the cumin, coriander and black pepper and stir for 30 seconds until they smell toasted. Add the tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes, until they collapse into the fat and turn it orange.
6. 6Braise the vaja. Pour in 800 ml of hot water — just enough to cover the vegetables, because this is a sauce, not a soup. Add the potatoes and cabbage, season with salt and bring to the boil. Lower the heat and simmer uncovered for 35–40 minutes, until a potato cube crushes easily against the side of the pot and the liquid has reduced to a thick, glossy gravy. Add the bay leaf for the last 5 minutes; if the sauce is still thin, simmer a few minutes longer.
7. 7Serve. Pour boiling water over the noodles to warm them through, drain, and divide between deep bowls. Ladle the meat, vegetables and plenty of vaja over the top so the noodles are coated but not swimming. Scatter with chopped parsley and dill and serve at once, while the noodles are still hot and springy.