Lyulya Kebab (Azerbaijani Lamb Skewers)

Method

1. 1Grind the lamb and tail fat together (or finely chop the fat into ready-made ground lamb). The fat isn't optional — lean lamb dries over fire, while the tail fat melts and keeps the kebab juicy.
2. 2Grate the onion and squeeze out the juice through cheesecloth. Excess moisture is the main reason the meat slides off the skewer; you want the onion pulp, not the liquid.
3. 3Combine the meat, squeezed onion, salt, and black pepper. Knead and slap the mixture against the bowl for 8–10 minutes until it turns dense and tacky — with no egg or bread, the kneading is what binds it.
4. 4Cover and refrigerate for at least an hour. Cold, firm mince is easier to shape and grips the skewer better.
5. 5With damp hands, press the mince onto a wide flat skewer into a 16–18 cm cylinder, packing it tight. A round skewer lets the kebab spin — use a flat one or two thin skewers.
6. 6Grill over even mangal coals for 10–15 minutes, turning, until the crust browns. Don't overcook — lamb dries out fast.
7. 7Slide onto lavash, dust with sumac, and serve with sumac-pickled onion and herbs.