Pad See Ew

Method

1. 1If using fresh wide rice noodles, gently separate the sheets by hand; if they've been refrigerated and are stiff, microwave them for 30 seconds to loosen. For dried noodles, soak in warm water until pliable but not fully soft, then drain well.
2. 2Mix the sauce: stir together the dark soy sauce, light soy sauce, oyster sauce, and sugar. The dark soy is for colour and a faint molasses note; the light soy and oyster sauce carry the salt and savour.
3. 3Slice the chicken thin and cut the gai lan, separating the thick stems from the leaves. Peel and roughly chop the garlic.
4. 4Heat a wok or wide pan until very hot, add half the oil, and stir-fry the chicken until just cooked. Push it aside, add the garlic and the gai lan stems, and stir-fry for a minute until the stems soften slightly.
5. 5Push everything to one side, add the remaining oil, and crack in the eggs. Let them set for a few seconds, then scramble roughly before folding into the rest.
6. 6Add the noodles and the gai lan leaves, pour over the sauce, and toss over the highest heat. Let the noodles sit against the hot pan between tosses — the slight char, the wok hei, is the whole point of pad see ew.
7. 7Toss just until the noodles are coated and glossy and a few edges have caught colour. Don't overstir or they'll break up and turn gluey. Finish with a dusting of white pepper and serve at once.