Patatas Bravas

Method

1. 1Parboil the potatoes with baking soda. Cut the potatoes into chunky, irregular pieces — roughly 3 cm. No need to be precise; irregular edges crisp better than smooth ones. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to the boil and add the bicarbonate of soda. Add the potatoes and boil for 5 to 7 minutes — they should be just tender at the edges but still firm in the center. You're not cooking them through; you're roughening their surface. Drain into a colander, then return them to the empty hot pot and shake vigorously for 30 seconds. The agitation breaks down the fluffy outer layer, creating a rough, starchy surface that crisps spectacularly in the oven. Spread on a plate or tray and leave to steam dry for 5 minutes.
2. 2Make the salsa brava. While the potatoes steam, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the diced onion and a pinch of salt and cook for 7 to 8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft and lightly golden. Add 2 of the garlic cloves (minced) and cook for 1 minute until fragrant. Add both paprikas and stir for 30 seconds — the heat blooms the spices and makes the sauce smell deeply smoky. Add the tomatoes, vinegar, and sugar. Stir, bring to a simmer, and cook uncovered for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has thickened and reduced. Blend until smooth with an immersion blender or in a stand blender. Taste and adjust salt, vinegar, and heat. The sauce should be bold, smoky, and have a clear but not overwhelming heat.
3. 3Make the garlic aioli. In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise with the remaining garlic clove (finely grated or pressed to a paste), the lemon juice, and a pinch of salt. Stir well. Taste: it should be creamy, garlicky, and have a bright lemony edge. Cover and refrigerate. The aioli can be made up to 3 days ahead. For a more substantial garlic flavor, use 2 cloves instead of 1.
4. 4Roast or pan-fry the potatoes. For oven roasting: preheat to 220°C (430°F). Toss the roughed-up potatoes with the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil and season with salt. Spread in a single layer on a large baking sheet — don't crowd them. Roast 30 to 35 minutes, turning once at the halfway point, until deeply golden and crisp. For pan-frying, skip the 3 tablespoons and use the extra oil instead: heat a 1 cm layer of olive oil in a large heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat. Fry the potatoes in batches for 8 to 10 minutes, turning occasionally, until crisp and golden on all sides. Drain on paper towels and season immediately with salt.
5. 5Serve. Transfer the hot crispy potatoes to a serving bowl or platter. Spoon the warm salsa brava generously over the top — enough to coat, not drown. Drizzle the garlic aioli over in zigzag lines or dollops. Scatter the chopped parsley. Serve immediately while the potatoes are still crisp. Have extra sauce on the side for dipping. Traditionally this is tapas — shared at the table with drinks.