Salade Lyonnaise (French Frisée Salad with Bacon and Poached Egg)

Method

1. 1Prepare the frisée. Trim the stump from about 200 g of frisée and tear the leaves into bite-size pieces. For extra crispness, soak the frisée in cold water for 10 minutes, then dry it thoroughly in a salad spinner — crisp leaves hold up better to the warm dressing. Frisée is a curly, feathery chicory; if you cannot find it, escarole is the best substitute, and it's sometimes mixed half-and-half with frisée for a milder bitterness. Avoid soft, tender lettuces, which wilt instantly under hot dressing.
2. 2Crisp the lardons. Cut 200 g of thick-cut bacon (or pancetta) into lardons — thick batons about ½ cm. Fry them in a skillet over medium heat with a drop of olive oil until crisp on the outside but still juicy, about 5-8 minutes. Lift the lardons out with a slotted spoon and set aside, leaving about 2-3 tablespoons of the rendered fat in the pan. Save that fat — it is the base of the warm vinaigrette and the heart of the dish.
3. 3Make the warm vinaigrette in the pan. Add 1 finely chopped shallot to the bacon fat and cook over medium heat until soft and fragrant, about 1 minute. Take the pan off the heat (or keep it very low) and whisk in 2 teaspoons of Dijon mustard, 2 tablespoons of red wine vinegar, and 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil into an emulsion. Season with ½ teaspoon of salt and a few grinds of black pepper. The warm vinaigrette built on bacon fat takes on a deep, umami flavor — this is the magic of the dish. Use white wine or champagne vinegar instead for a lighter note.
4. 4Poach the eggs. Use 4 fresh eggs at room temperature — fresh eggs have tighter whites that hold together better. Bring a pot of water to a gentle simmer (not a rolling boil) and add a splash of vinegar if you like. Create a gentle whirlpool, slip in an egg, and cook 3-4 minutes, until the white is set but the yolk stays runny. Lift out with a slotted spoon, drain briefly on a towel, then keep warm in a bowl of warm (not hot) water while you poach the rest. If poaching feels daunting, fry the eggs sunny-side up in the leftover bacon fat instead — also delicious. The runny yolk is the point: it will run into the salad and enrich the dressing.
5. 5Assemble and serve at once. Put the frisée in a large bowl, add the warm lardons, and pour over the warm vinaigrette straight from the pan. Toss quickly — the warm dressing will lightly wilt the greens, which is correct. Divide among plates and top each with a poached egg. Finish with a pinch of extra salt, freshly ground pepper, and chopped chives or parsley if you like. Serve immediately, while warm; at the table the yolk is broken and runs into the salad. This is a salad of the moment — do not let it stand, or the greens collapse completely.