Chawanmushi with Crab and Shiitake (Japanese Steamed Egg Custard)

Method

1. 1Warm the dashi, stir in the light soy sauce, mirin, and a pinch of salt, then let it cool to lukewarm so it doesn't scramble the eggs.
2. 2Crack the eggs into a bowl and cut through them with chopsticks in a slicing motion rather than whisking — beating in air makes the finished custard porous. Weigh or measure: the ratio is 1 part egg to 3 parts dashi.
3. 3Pour the seasoned dashi into the eggs slowly, mixing gently, then pass the mixture through a fine sieve. Straining is what makes the difference between a silky custard and a grainy one.
4. 4Slice the shiitake caps thinly. Divide the crab meat, shiitake, kamaboko slices, and ginkgo nuts between four heatproof cups, keeping the fillings to about a third of each cup.
5. 5Pour in the custard until each cup is about 80 percent full, then skim off any bubbles from the surface with a spoon or a skewer tip.
6. 6Set the cups in a pot with 2–3 cm of water, cover each with a lid or foil, and wrap the pot lid in a cloth to catch condensation. Steam over high heat 1 minute, then drop to the lowest heat, keeping the water at 80–90°C, and steam 12–15 minutes with the lid slightly ajar.
7. 7Test with a skewer: the liquid that rises should be clear, not cloudy. Top with mitsuba and a shaving of yuzu zest and serve warm.