Chicken Tikka Masala

Method

1. 1Marinate the chicken. Combine yogurt, Kashmiri chilli powder, cumin, coriander, turmeric, ginger-garlic paste, lemon juice, and 1 teaspoon of salt in a large bowl. Add the chicken and massage the marinade into each piece with your hands. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour — overnight gives the best result. The yogurt-acid combination tenderises the meat and lets the spices penetrate rather than just coat the surface.
2. 2Cook the tikka. Heat a wide heavy pan or cast-iron skillet over high heat until very hot. Add a tablespoon of oil or ghee. Shake excess marinade off each piece and lay half the chicken in a single layer with space between the pieces. If they touch, they steam in their own juice and never char. Sear without moving for 3 to 4 minutes until real char forms on the base. Turn and repeat. The chicken should look almost burnt in places; it is still raw in the middle and finishes cooking in the sauce. Remove to a clean plate, let the pan get very hot again and sear the second half the same way. Throw away the marinade left in the bowl. This char is the whole point of tikka — it gives the finished dish its smoky edge against the creamy sauce.
3. 3Brown the onions. In a large saucepan, heat the remaining tablespoon of oil or ghee over medium heat. Add the diced onions with a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring every few minutes, for 15 to 20 minutes until deep golden-brown. This is the flavor base — pale onions make a pale, one-note sauce. Add the ginger-garlic paste and cook 2 more minutes.
4. 4Build the sauce. Add the tomato paste and stir into the onions, cooking for 2 to 3 minutes until it darkens. Add the garam masala, Kashmiri chilli powder, and ground coriander. Stir for 60 seconds until the spices smell toasted. Pour in the crushed tomatoes and sugar. Bring to a simmer and cook uncovered for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce reduces and oil begins to separate at the surface.
5. 5Finish and serve. Add the charred chicken pieces with any resting juices. Simmer for 8 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through: the largest piece reads 74 °C in the centre, is white to the middle when cut open, and its juices run clear. Stir in the cream on low heat. Crush the kasuri methi between your palms and scatter it in — this is the ingredient that makes the finished dish smell like a restaurant kitchen. Taste and adjust salt. Serve over basmati rice or with naan, topped with a little fresh coriander.