Esquites (Mexican Street Corn Salad with Cotija, Lime, and Chili)

Method

1. 1Prep the produce. Finely dice the red onion and the jalapeño (remove the seeds for milder heat, keep them for full kick). Mince the garlic. Roughly chop the cilantro, including soft stems. Crumble the cotija into pea-sized pieces by hand or with the back of a fork; pre-crumbled cotija from a tub works, but the texture is finer than ideal. Zest one lime onto a small plate, then juice it; the second lime is for serving. If using fresh corn, slice the kernels off 4 to 5 cobs over a wide bowl. If using frozen corn, thaw fully and pat dry with paper towels, because wet corn steams instead of charring.
2. 2Char the corn. Heat a cast iron skillet or wok over high heat until it just starts to smoke. Add the corn in a single layer to the dry pan (if it sticks, add 1 tsp neutral oil). Do not stir for the first 3 to 4 minutes: the bottom kernels need to develop deep black spots, and the smell of caramel and smoke is your cue. Toss once, then cook another 2 to 3 minutes undisturbed for a second char. Repeat if needed; total time is 8 to 10 minutes, until about half of the kernels show black spots. The butter stays out for now, because it would burn at this heat.
3. 3Lower the heat to medium. Add the butter, the diced jalapeño and the minced garlic and stir for 1 minute, just until the butter melts and coats the corn and the garlic loses its raw edge without browning. Transfer the corn to a wide mixing bowl and let it cool for 5 minutes. Hot corn melts the cotija and breaks the mayo emulsion. Stir in the cumin and ¼ tsp of the salt while the corn is still warm so the seasonings stick.
4. 4Build the dressing. In a separate small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, Mexican crema, lime juice, the lime zest, ½ tsp of the Tajín, and the remaining ¼ tsp salt. Whisk for 30 seconds until uniform and slightly thickened. The dressing should coat, not pour: like a thick salad dressing, not a sauce.
5. 5Combine. Pour the dressing over the cooled corn mixture. Add the diced red onion and fold everything together with a spatula or spoon until every kernel glistens. Taste and adjust: more lime juice if it tastes flat, more salt if needed (the cotija adds salt later, so go light), more Tajín for tang and heat. You should be able to taste all four notes: smoky, creamy, sour and spicy.
6. 6Finish and serve. Add the crumbled cotija and chopped cilantro. Fold gently so the cheese stays in distinct crumbs instead of melting into the dressing. Transfer to a serving bowl or, street-food style, divide between 6 small clear cups or glasses. Top each portion with an extra pinch of cotija, the remaining ½ tsp Tajín and a little cilantro, and put the second lime, cut into wedges, on the side. Serve at room temperature or chilled. Eat with spoons: esquites is a spoon salad, not a fork salad.