Esquites (Mexican Street Corn Salad with Cotija, Lime, and Chili)

Cotija is a salty, crumbly Mexican cow's milk cheese from Michoacán, sometimes called 'Mexican parmesan'. It does not melt under heat, falls apart in crumbs, and brings a salty punch into the creamy dressing, which is the key note of esquites. The closest substitute is feta: crumble it and use it 1:1, patting it dry first because it is wetter and a little tangier. Finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano gives similar salty depth with a denser texture, and queso fresco is milder, so add an extra pinch of salt. Mozzarella, cheddar, brie and processed cheese do not work: they melt or have the wrong texture. Cotija sells at Latin grocery stores and online and keeps for several weeks in the fridge.

Frozen corn works very well, sometimes better than fresh: it is drier, so it chars faster, and the charred surface is the main flavor of the dish. Thaw it fully and pat it dry with paper towels, otherwise it steams instead of charring. Fresh corn tastes sweeter and juicier, and is best in summer. Canned corn is the last resort, because it is wet and soft: drain it, spread it on paper towels for 10 minutes, pat it dry, and char it over the highest heat. You will get a decent esquites, but a less smoky one than with frozen or fresh corn.

Charring is the technique that separates street-style esquites from a bland home version. The Maillard reaction on the kernels gives nutty, smoky, caramelized notes; without it the dish is boiled corn with mayonnaise. Use a dry cast iron skillet or wok on high heat with the corn in a single layer, and do not stir for the first 3 to 4 minutes. Toss once, wait another 2 to 3 minutes, and stop after 8 to 10 minutes in total, when about half of the kernels show black spots. Add the butter only at the end, for the last minute, because it burns on a pan this hot. On an open gas flame or a grill you can char whole cobs, turning them, and cut off the kernels afterwards. On an electric stove add 1 tsp neutral oil to the pan and cook a few minutes longer.

Elote and esquites share the same flavors; the difference is the format. Elote is a whole corn cob on a stick, spread with mayo and rolled in cotija, chili powder and lime. Esquites is the corn cut off the cob and served in a cup with a spoon, which is why it is also called elote en vaso, 'corn in a cup'. The name comes from the Nahuatl word ízquitl, 'toasted corn'. Many vendors boil the kernels with salt and epazote and sauté them in butter and onion; the charred version here is a quicker route to a smoky flavor. 'Mexican street corn salad' is the English-language menu name for the same dish. It goes well next to tacos al pastor.

Esquites keeps in an airtight container in the fridge for 3 to 4 days, and the flavor deepens overnight as the corn absorbs the dressing. That makes it a good make-ahead dish for parties. The key rule is to add the cotija and cilantro about 15 minutes before serving, otherwise the cheese softens from the moisture and the cilantro darkens. The day before, char the corn, dice the onion and jalapeño, juice the limes and whisk the dressing in a separate bowl, all into the fridge. Two hours before serving, combine the corn with the dressing and onion. Fifteen minutes before, add cotija and cilantro, and put out a bowl of guacamole alongside. Freezing the finished dish is not worth it, because the mayo and cotija separate on thawing; if you have too much corn, freeze only the charred kernels, without dressing or cheese, for up to 2 months.