Insalata di Finocchi e Arance (Sicilian Fennel and Orange Salad)

Method

1. 1Prepare the fennel. Trim the stalks and any damaged outer layers from 2 fennel bulbs, and cut off the base. Save the green feathery fronds — they are the ideal garnish. Halve each bulb lengthwise, remove the tough core if you like, and slice very thinly, ideally on a mandoline or with a very sharp knife. Thin slicing is the key: thick fennel is tough and too aniseedy, thin fennel is tender and crisp. For a milder, crisper bite, hold the sliced fennel in ice water for 10 minutes, then drain.
2. 2Peel the oranges to the flesh. Cut the top and bottom off 4 oranges (blood oranges if you can get them) so they stand steady. Stand each on a cut end and slice away the peel and all the white pith from top to bottom, following the curve of the fruit — the pith is bitter and would spoil the salad. Slice the oranges into thin rounds about ½ cm thick, or cut out segments between the membranes. Save all the juice that runs out, and squeeze the juice from the leftover trimmings and membranes — this is the base of the dressing.
3. 3Slice the onion and olives. Peel 1 red onion and slice it very thinly. If the onion is sharp, soak the slices in cold water for 10 minutes and drain — this softens the bite. Pit 60 g of black olives if needed and chop them roughly. The salty olives are the Sicilian agrodolce touch, the contrast to the sweet orange.
4. 4Make the dressing. In a bowl, whisk the reserved orange juice with 4 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, ½ teaspoon of salt, and a few grinds of black pepper into a light citrus emulsion. This is the authentic Sicilian dressing — the acidity comes from the orange itself, with no vinegar or lemon. If the oranges are very sweet, a small splash of wine vinegar is allowed but not traditional. Use the best fruity olive oil, ideally Sicilian, since there are so few ingredients.
5. 5Assemble and serve. Arrange the orange rounds on a platter, slightly overlapping. Scatter the thinly sliced fennel, onion, and black olives over the top. Spoon over the dressing and finish with the chopped fennel fronds. Let the salad rest at room temperature for 30 minutes to 2 hours, so the flavors come together and the fennel softens slightly. Serve at room temperature, not chilled — cold mutes the aroma of the orange and oil. Best eaten the day it is made; the fennel softens by the next day.