Kimchi Jjigae (Korean Kimchi Stew)

Method

1. 1Prepare the base. Slice the pork belly into 2 cm pieces, slice the onion, mince the garlic and cut the tofu into 2 cm slabs. Keep the kimchi brine in a separate cup; that salty, sour liquid seasons the stew far more reliably than extra salt.
2. 2Render the pork. Put the pork belly in a heavy pot over medium heat and cook for 6 minutes, stirring until the fat turns glossy and the edges take on pale golden spots. Do not let it become crisp; the rendered fat is for frying the kimchi, while the pork should stay tender in the finished stew.
3. 3Fry the kimchi. Add the kimchi, onion and garlic and cook over medium heat for 7 minutes, stirring often, until the cabbage softens and its juices look darker and slightly sticky on the bottom of the pot. This short fry removes the raw sharpness and gives the broth its rounded flavour.
4. 4Bloom the seasonings. Stir in the gochugaru and gochujang for 30 seconds, until the pepper flakes smell toasted and the paste coats the cabbage. Keep the heat moderate: gochugaru burns quickly and then tastes bitter rather than smoky.
5. 5Simmer the stew. Pour in the anchovy stock and kimchi brine, scrape up the red fond, then bring the pot to a full boil. Lower to a steady simmer, cover loosely and cook for 18 minutes; the broth should become brick-red and the pork should yield easily when pressed with a spoon.
6. 6Add the tofu. Slide in the tofu without stirring hard, then simmer uncovered for 5 minutes until the slabs are hot through and the broth bubbles around their edges. Tofu breaks easily at this point, so use the pot handle to gently swirl rather than a spoon.
7. 7Finish and serve. Add the scallions and sesame oil, simmer for 1 minute, then taste the broth before adding anything else. Serve immediately in warm bowls with steamed rice; kimchi brands vary wildly in salt, so a final splash of water is often better than more seasoning.