Penne alla Vodka

Method

1. 1Render the pancetta. Heat the olive oil in a wide, heavy pan over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until it has rendered most of its fat and the pieces are starting to brown and crisp — about 6 to 8 minutes. Do not rush this step: the rendered fat becomes the base of the sauce and the crispy pancetta bits scattered back in at the end are one of the dish's key textural elements. Once done, remove the pancetta with a slotted spoon and set aside, leaving the fat in the pan.
2. 2Build the base. In the same pan over medium heat, add the diced onion to the pancetta fat and a splash of olive oil if needed. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and just starting to turn golden — about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and chilli flakes and cook 1 to 2 minutes more until fragrant. Add the tomato paste and stir it into the onion and fat, letting it cook for 2 minutes — this 'toasting' of the paste deepens its flavor and color from bright red to a deeper, almost brick tone.
3. 3Add the vodka and tomatoes. Remove the pan from the heat before adding the vodka — if you have a gas hob this prevents a flare-up. Pour in the vodka, return to medium-high heat, and let it simmer briskly for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring frequently. You want most of the alcohol to evaporate — you will smell this change as the sharp ethanol smell softens into something rounder. Add the crushed tomatoes and tomato paste, stir to combine, and simmer over medium-low heat for 12 to 15 minutes until the sauce has thickened and the tomatoes have broken down. Season lightly with salt — the pancetta and Parmesan will add more later.
4. 4Add the cream and finish the sauce. Reduce the heat to low before adding the cream — high heat at this point can cause the cream to split and the sauce to look grainy. Pour in the cream and stir until fully incorporated. The sauce should turn from red to a deep salmon-pink color. Simmer gently for 3 to 4 minutes until slightly thickened. Taste and adjust seasoning. Add the pancetta back in. Meanwhile, cook the penne in generously salted boiling water until just shy of al dente — 1 to 2 minutes less than the package says.
5. 5Finish in the sauce. Drain the pasta, reserving a cup of pasta water. Add the penne directly to the sauce over medium heat and toss vigorously for 1 to 2 minutes, letting the pasta finish cooking in the sauce and absorb some of it. If the sauce is too thick, add pasta water a splash at a time. Remove from heat, stir in the grated Parmesan and torn basil. Serve immediately in warmed bowls with extra Parmesan at the table.