Spaghetti alle Vongole

Method

1. 1Purge the clams: soak them in a bowl of cold salted water (2 litres of water with 60 g coarse salt, about 30 g per litre) for 30 to 60 minutes so they spit out sand, then lift them out by hand, leaving the sand at the bottom of the bowl, and rinse. Discard any that stay open when tapped.
2. 2Put a large pot with about 3 litres of water on to boil now, and salt it lightly with 15 g of salt, about 5 g per litre, half the usual amount; the clam liquor is already salty.
3. 3Warm the extra virgin olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the sliced garlic and red pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute; do not let the garlic brown.
4. 4Add the clams and the dry white wine, cover, and cook 2 to 4 minutes until the shells open. Discard any that stay shut.
5. 5Lift out the clams. Strain the liquid through a fine sieve to remove grit and return it to the pan. Shell most of the clams, keeping a few in the shell for serving.
6. 6Meanwhile cook the spaghetti 1 to 2 minutes short of the package time; reserve a cup of the starchy water before draining.
7. 7Transfer the spaghetti to the skillet with the clam liquor. Toss vigorously over medium heat, adding a splash of pasta water, until the oil and liquor emulsify into a silky sauce that coats the strands (mantecatura).
8. 8Return the clams and stir in the chopped parsley. Do not add cheese. Serve at once with the reserved shells on top.