Spätzle

Method

1. 1Make the batter. Combine the flour and salt in a large bowl. Make a well in the center and add the beaten eggs. Beat together with a wooden spoon, then gradually add the cold water or milk, mixing until you have a smooth, thick, elastic batter with no lumps. Beat vigorously for 2 to 3 minutes until small air bubbles appear in the batter — this develops the gluten slightly and improves texture. The consistency is correct when a spoonful of batter falls slowly and thickly, leaving a trail: thicker than pancake batter, looser than bread dough. Add more water a tablespoon at a time if too stiff, more flour if too runny. Cover and rest for 15 minutes.
2. 2Cook in batches. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil, then reduce to a steady simmer. Work in two batches. Place a large-holed colander, Spätzle press, or cheese grater over the pot. Spoon half the batter into the colander and press through the holes using a silicone spatula or the back of a spoon — the batter falls as irregular short strands into the water. Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes until the Spätzle float to the surface. Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a bowl of cold water for 1 minute to stop cooking and prevent sticking. Drain. Repeat with the remaining batter.
3. 3Finish in butter. Melt the butter in a large wide pan over medium-high heat until it foams, then subsides and turns a pale gold with a faint nutty smell — this is beurre noisette, brown butter, which takes about 2 minutes. Add the drained Spätzle. Toss to coat and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 to 4 minutes until the Spätzle are heated through and lightly golden at the edges. Season with salt and a small grating of nutmeg if desired. Remove from heat and scatter over the parsley. Serve immediately.