Spring Pea and Feta Couscous Salad

Pearl couscous (also called Israeli couscous or ptitim) is a round, toasted pasta made from wheat semolina, about the size of a pea. It has a chewy, slightly bouncy texture and a mild flavor that takes well to toasting and absorbs dressings without turning mushy. Regular couscous — the North African kind — is much smaller, made the same way but with a finer grain, and has a fluffier, more delicate texture. They're interchangeable in theory but produce entirely different salads. This recipe uses pearl couscous specifically because it holds up better and has more textural interest. If you use fine couscous instead, skip the toasting step and add the dressing while it's still warm so it absorbs properly.

Frozen peas are excellent here and in many ways better than fresh: they're picked and frozen at peak sweetness, consistently sweet, and available year-round. They don't need to be cooked — just thaw them by running warm water over them in a colander for a minute or two, then drain well. They'll be tender and bright green. If you want to be precise, you can blanch them in boiling water for 60 seconds and refresh in ice water to set the color, but it's not necessary. If you find fresh peas in season, taste them raw first — if they're sweet and tender, use them raw; if they're a bit starchy, blanch briefly.

Raw shallots have a sharp, sulphurous bite that dominates everything around them. In a salad with mild pearl couscous and fresh peas, raw shallots would overpower the whole thing. A quick pickle in red wine vinegar and sugar mellows the sharpness and replaces it with a pleasant sweet-sour flavor that complements the feta and lemon without competing with the mint. The shallots also turn a vivid pink, which makes the salad look better. The whole process takes about 5 minutes of actual work and 20 minutes of waiting — worth doing.

It keeps well for up to 2 days in the refrigerator. Pearl couscous, unlike leafy greens or regular pasta, doesn't turn soggy or absorb dressing in a way that makes it unpleasant — if anything, it tastes better the next day once it's fully absorbed the lemon and olive oil. The mint will wilt slightly by day two, which is why if you want a fresher look, you can hold back half the mint and add it just before serving or eating leftovers. The feta stays good and the peas hold their color well.

It's a natural pair for roast or grilled lamb — the mint, lemon, and feta echo the flavors typically paired with lamb across the Mediterranean and Middle East. It also works alongside grilled chicken or fish, particularly salmon or sea bass. For a vegetarian spread: serve alongside roasted aubergine with tahini, or with flatbread and hummus. As a standalone lunch it's substantial enough for two people, especially if you add chickpeas. It travels well to picnics and potlucks — it won't wilt on the way there.