Olive Tapenade

Tapenade is a classic Provençal paste — its name comes from the Provençal word tapeno meaning caper. Capers are a mandatory ingredient, not optional: they provide the characteristic salty-sour note. Greek olive paste is simply blended olives with olive oil. Tapenade is more complex: capers, anchovies (optional), lemon juice, herbs — a complete sauce with layered flavor.

Anchovies in tapenade don't register as fish — they provide umami, the fifth taste, depth and saltiness. When blended they dissolve completely into the paste. This is the same role as Worcestershire sauce in Caesar dressing. Without anchovies tapenade is flatter. Vegetarian version: add a little miso paste or a pinch of nori flakes — they provide a similar umami note.

Kalamata is the ideal choice: meaty, with deep flavor and moderate bitterness. Tinned black olives (California-style) are too soft and bland, often artificially colored. Green olives make a different tapenade — fresher and sharper. The classic is a blend of black Kalamata and some green olives. Important: olives should be rinsed well or out of brine, otherwise tapenade will be oversalted.

In Provence tapenade is spread on toast or grilled bread as aperitivo. It is used as a paste under meat for roasting — rub lamb or chicken before the oven. Diluted with olive oil it becomes a pasta sauce. Added to pizza instead of tomato sauce. Served with crudités — raw vegetables. In the fridge it keeps under a layer of olive oil for 2–3 weeks.

In Provence it is made in a mortar — slowly, by hand, with an uneven grainy texture. A blender is acceptable but it's easy to go too far: the main mistake is turning tapenade into a smooth cream. The right texture is rough, with pieces. In a blender use the pulse function — 1–2 second bursts, then stir with a spoon, then pulse again. The result should still look 'readable'.