Chikhirtma
A Georgian chicken soup with almost no vegetables, thickened with egg yolks to a velvety, golden creaminess and soured with vinegar. Saffron colours it and cilantro gives it its Georgian character; it is a Kakhetian winter dish and a famous hangover cure.
Ingredients
- 1200 gchicken
- 3000 mlwater
- 200 gonion
- 2 tbspwheat flour
- 2 tbspbutter
- 5 wholeegg yolks
- 3 tbspwhite wine vinegar
- 1 pinchsaffron
- 1 tspground coriander
- 4 tbspfresh cilantro
- 2 clovesgarlic
- 2 wholebay leaf
- 2 tspsalt
- 0.5 tspblack pepper
Method
- Put the chicken in a pot with the water and bay leaves, bring to a boil, and skim off the foam. Simmer about 1 hour, until tender. Lift out the chicken, shred the meat off the bone, and strain the broth back into the pot.
- Steep the saffron in a few tablespoons of hot broth and set aside.
- Chop the onion and soften it in the butter over low heat until translucent but not browned, about 6 minutes. Stir in the flour and cook 1 minute, then whisk in a ladle of broth to make a smooth paste, and stir it into the pot.
- Add the shredded chicken, the saffron infusion, ground coriander, and salt. Keep the soup at a gentle simmer.
- Beat the egg yolks with the vinegar, then whisk in a ladle of warm (not boiling) broth to temper them.
- Take the pot off strong heat and pour in the yolk mixture in a thin stream, stirring constantly in one direction. Keep it just below a simmer for 2 to 3 minutes to thicken; do not let it boil.
- Stir in the crushed garlic, black pepper, and cilantro, and serve hot.
FAQ
Temper them: beat the yolks with vinegar or lemon, whisk in a ladle of warm broth, then stream them into the soup over low heat, stirring constantly. Do not bring it to a boil after the eggs go in.
The classic is yolks only: the soup is creamier, more golden, and richer. Whole eggs give a paler, less velvety result. Both are acceptable.
All three appear. Vinegar and lemon are the most common; a spoon of tkemali (sour plum sauce) gives a more Georgian, plummy tang. It is a matter of taste.
Yes: leave out the flour roux or replace it with cornstarch or cornmeal; the yolks will do the thickening. The texture will be a little lighter.
The rich broth, protein, and gentle acidity are restorative, so in Georgia chikhirtma is traditionally eaten the morning after.
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