Egusi Soup (Nigerian Melon Seed Stew)

Egusi is the dried, shelled seed of a West African melon (a relative of the watermelon), grown mainly for its protein- and fat-rich seeds rather than its bitter flesh. The seeds are ground to a coarse flour or paste, which thickens the soup and gives it its signature nutty flavour and slightly grainy texture. Sometimes called melon seeds, they're sold whole or ground in African and international grocers. There's no true substitute — the whole dish is built around them — though ground pumpkin seeds are a rough approximation in a pinch.

These are the two main ways to cook the egusi, and Nigerian cooks debate them fiercely. In the frying method (common among the Yoruba), the egusi paste is dropped into hot palm oil and pepper and fried until it forms lumps with a nutty, roasted flavour and a drier, more textured feel. In the boiling method, the egusi is cooked directly in the stock, giving a smoother, creamier soup. Both are authentic; this recipe uses the frying method for its deeper flavour and classic lumps.

Red palm oil is central to egusi soup: it gives the deep orange-red colour and a distinctive earthy, slightly savoury flavour that defines the dish. It's not the same as refined palm oil or palm kernel oil. You can technically make egusi with another oil, but it won't look or taste traditional. Look for unrefined red palm oil in African or Caribbean grocers. Use it in moderation, as it's rich, and let it heat before adding the pepper base.

These dried and fermented ingredients are what give egusi its deep, layered umami — the savoury complexity that makes it so distinctive. Ground crayfish (dried, powdered shrimp-like shellfish) adds a briny depth; smoked or stockfish brings a rich, fishy savouriness; and iru (also sold as dawadawa), the fermented seeds of the African locust bean tree, Parkia biglobosa, adds a pungent, fermented note similar in role to miso or fish sauce. They're traditional and worth seeking out, but you can make a simpler version with just the crayfish, or lean on extra stock and seasoning. Crayfish is a shellfish and smoked fish is fish — both are allergens, and the soup can be made without them.

Egusi is traditionally eaten with a 'swallow' — a soft, dough-like staple you pinch off and dip into the soup. The classics are pounded yam, eba (made from cassava/garri), fufu, semovita, and amala. It's also delicious with plain boiled rice, boiled yam, or plantain. The soup is thick and rich, so a plain, starchy side balances it. Serve it hot in generous bowls, and don't be shy with the assorted meats and fish on top.