Herring with Onions and Potatoes (Russian Zakuska)

If the fillets are too salty, soak them in cold milk or water for 30–60 minutes — milk pulls out salt more gently and softens the fish. Strong cold tea works too, as its tannins keep the fillets firm. Pat the fish dry with paper towel afterward. Lightly salted herring doesn't need soaking.

The best flavor comes from lightly or medium-salted barrel herring, which is juicier and more aromatic. Pre-packed fillets are more convenient with no bones to deal with, but the taste is usually plainer. If you buy whole fish, choose firm ones with shiny skin and no yellow film. Spiced herring works too, but it overpowers the clean flavor of this zakuska.

Warm, fluffy potato sets off the cold salted fish — that contrast is the whole point of the dish. Hot potato soaks up the oil and dill aroma and tastes even more tender next to the cool herring. Cold boiled potato is acceptable, but the magic of the temperature contrast is lost. Boil the potatoes in their skins so they don't take on extra water.

The dish itself is gluten-free: salted fish, potatoes, onion, and oil contain no gluten. Be careful with what you serve it with — rye and wheat bread contain gluten, so use a suitable bread or skip it for a gluten-free version. Check the label on spiced herring: the marinade sometimes includes barley malt or thickeners.

Lay the fillet pieces overlapping along a narrow dish, then top with onion rings and drops of oil. Warm potatoes go beside or around them, dusted with dill. For a festive look, add wedges of boiled egg, pickled onion, or mustard seeds. Serve it chilled with slices of rye bread.