Khorovats

Khorovats is the Armenian grill tradition, built on a marinade of pomegranate molasses, Aleppo pepper, and ground coriander rather than the vinegar or mayonnaise used in many other regional versions. Whole grilled vegetables charred into a smoky salad and the lavash-steam rest afterward are part of the method, not optional extras. Shashlik is the broader post-Soviet word for skewered grilled meat in general, the same family as kabob skewers, and khorovats is the Armenian branch of that tradition.

Pork neck or shoulder is the classic cut because the fat renders slowly on the grill and keeps the meat from drying out. Lamb and beef are also common, chicken less so, since it toughens quickly over hot coals. Whatever cut you choose, avoid lean, boneless pork loin unless you baste it often — fattier cuts forgive more mistakes. If you want to round out an Armenian spread, dolma is the classic starter served alongside khorovats.

The whole skin protects the flesh: the vegetable essentially steams inside its own charred jacket, staying juicy while picking up a smoky flavor from the fire. Cutting eggplant, peppers, or tomatoes before grilling lets the juices drain straight into the coals and dries out the flesh. After a few minutes resting in a covered bowl, the blackened skin peels off in one motion, leaving soft, smoky flesh underneath for the salad.

Once the skewers come off the fire, the meat slides onto a sheet of lavash, gets covered with a second sheet and a lid, and rests 5 to 10 minutes away from the heat. The trapped warmth and steam finish the cooking gently, so the meat turns out noticeably more tender than if it went straight to the plate. The lavash underneath soaks up the meat juices, gets torn into pieces, and is served alongside it — it is too good to leave on the tray.

Yes — pomegranate molasses gives the marinade its sweet-sour edge, but the meat will still grill up fine without it. Swap in a splash of lemon juice or reduced pomegranate juice for a similar tang, or skip it and rely on the onion, coriander, and Aleppo pepper alone. The flavor will be a touch simpler and less sweet, but it is still a proper khorovats marinade.