Makarony po-flotski (Russian Navy-Style Pasta)

Traditionally penne, elbow macaroni or other tubular shapes, which hold the meat well inside. Cook it al dente, slightly underdone, so it finishes when tossed with the meat and doesn't go mushy. Before draining, scoop out 2–3 tablespoons of the starchy cooking water — it helps bind the pasta and meat together in the final toss. Tossing the pasta with butter right after draining keeps it from clumping while you finish the meat.

Today most cooks use raw beef or pork mince, and a mix of the two is the juiciest. The older version used boiled beef, pork or lamb put through a grinder and then fried. Tushonka (tinned stewed meat) is the quick version — with it the dish comes together in minutes. Ground poultry works but is leaner and drier. With any meat, the key is to brown it well. For another Russian beef classic, see beef stroganoff.

The original makarony po-flotski recipe has no tomato — just meat, onion, and pasta. That's what sets it apart from spaghetti bolognese, to which it's sometimes compared. Modern versions add 1 tbsp of tomato paste to the meat for color and a little acidity, which is fine but changes the character. For the authentic navy version, leave the tomato out.

Usually the meat was stewed rather than fried: it releases juice, simmers in it, and turns grey. Fry it on a properly hot pan, uncovered, until the liquid evaporates and a browned crust forms — that crust is the flavor. Don't skimp on the onion and take it to golden. And check the salt: blandness is often just under-seasoning.

Yes — it keeps 2–3 days in the fridge and reheats in a pan with a splash of water or oil until steaming hot throughout (74°C). Note that the pasta soaks up moisture and softens as it sits, so freshly made tastes best. If making ahead, cook the pasta a touch less. Freezing isn't worth it — the pasta texture suffers. If you like this kind of simple Soviet comfort food, pelmeni keeps and reheats even better.