Nigerian Beef Suya

Yaji is a dry spice blend built on ground roasted peanuts. Without it suya is just grilled meat. The mix in this recipe: 100 g finely ground dry-roasted peanuts or kuli kuli powder, 2 teaspoons each of cayenne and smoked paprika, 1½ teaspoons ground ginger, 1 teaspoon each of garlic powder, onion powder and salt, and 1 crumbled stock cube. Combine and store in an airtight container for up to three weeks. The key is getting the peanut completely dry before grinding.

Sirloin, flank steak, or top round are the standard choices. The meat needs to be tender enough to slice thin, with a small amount of fat. Slice 5 to 6 millimetres thick, against the grain. That thickness cooks quickly, absorbs the yaji fully, and develops the right crust. Completely lean beef dries out. Tough cuts like brisket are not suitable.

The oven works well if you create enough heat. Preheat to 220°C. Place skewers on a wire rack over a baking tray so air circulates underneath. Cook 12 minutes, turning once. For the final 3 to 4 minutes, switch to the broiler setting to create surface char. Leave space between skewers as packed tightly the meat steams instead of roasting.

Three common causes. Meat sliced too thick: strips thicker than 7 to 8 millimetres do not cook fast enough and lose moisture. No oil before grilling: yaji is a dry mix, and without a thin layer of oil brushed over the spice-coated meat the surface dries out immediately. Overcooked: suya is done in 4 to 5 minutes per side on high heat. At medium heat it braises rather than grills and the texture turns stringy.

Thinly sliced raw onion, sliced tomatoes, and an extra pinch of yaji sprinkled directly over the hot meat. The onion and tomato cut through the heat of the spices. Street vendors hand it over wrapped in newspaper; at home, use baking paper or a clean sheet of plain paper. Cold drinks alongside. Suya also works next to jollof rice or fried plantains but as street food it stands entirely on its own.