Ptichye Moloko (Bird's Milk Cake)

Nine times out of ten it is the gelatin. It has to be fully melted, with no grains left, and poured into the meringue while still warm and liquid; gelatin that has cooled and begun to gel goes in as lumps and never binds the rest. Too-hot gelatin is the opposite problem: it deflates the whites, and a collapsed meringue reads as runny too. Whip the whites to stiff peaks before the sugar goes in, keep the mixer running while you pour, and give the mould a full 2 to 3 hours in the fridge. This soufflé does not rise in the oven; it firms up in the cold.

The classic Soviet recipe uses agar-agar (2–4 g per 250 ml liquid), which gives a denser, more stable texture. Modern versions often use gelatin (10–15 g) for a softer consistency. If using gelatin, do not boil the mixture after adding it — heat destroys its gelling ability. Agar sets at room temperature, gelatin requires refrigeration.

Chocolate seizes (turns grainy and thick) when moisture gets into it. Always melt chocolate in a completely dry bowl over a water bath, making sure no steam enters. Add 1–2 tbsp of butter or cream to make the glaze smooth and glossy. Pour the warm glaze over the chilled (but not frozen) souffle for an even coat.

Yes. Replace the whipped whites with 200 ml of well-chilled coconut cream or aquafaba (the liquid from a can of chickpeas), whipped to stiff peaks. Keep the same amount of sugar and gelatin, and pour the gelatin in warm, in a thin stream, just as in the main recipe. Skip the yolks in the custard: cook the flour with the milk into a thick paste, cool it, then beat it into the butter. The texture comes out a little airier and less dense. Chill 2–3 hours to set.

Store Bird's Milk cake in the refrigerator, covered with cling film or in an airtight container, for up to 5 days. The cake can be frozen (without the chocolate glaze) for up to 1 month — thaw in the refrigerator overnight. Do not leave the cake at room temperature for more than 2 hours, especially in warm weather.