Vatrushka (Russian Sweet Cheese Buns)

Almost always overbaking — they need only 18–22 minutes and dry out fast beyond that, so pull them the moment the dough is golden. A dough overloaded with flour also bakes up dry, so add flour gradually and stop while the dough is still soft and slightly tacky. Underproofing gives a dense, dry crumb too, so let it fully double. Brushing with egg and cooling under a towel helps keep them soft.

Use a dry, fairly firm tvorog (farmer's cheese or dry cottage cheese) rather than a wet, runny one, which would soak the dough. Press it through a sieve or blend it until completely smooth so the filling isn't grainy. Bind it with a yolk and a spoon of sour cream, plus a tablespoon of semolina if the tvorog is on the wet side, so it sets creamy and doesn't crack. If your tvorog is very moist, drain it in cheesecloth first. Leftover tvorog turns into syrniki the next morning.

Yes — while classic vatrushki use a rich yeast dough, you can make a faster version with a baking-powder or sour-cream shortcrust dough, ready without proofing. Store-bought yeast dough or puff pastry also works when you're short on time, though the texture differs. The filling stays the same. For the fluffiest, most traditional result, though, the proofed yeast dough is worth the wait.

Beyond the classic sweet tvorog, vatrushki take thick jam, poppy-seed paste, apple, berries, or custard. Savory versions are filled with potato, mushrooms, or cabbage. Whatever you use, the filling should be thick, not runny, so it stays in the well and doesn't soak the dough. Add raisins, candied orange, or a little lemon zest to the cheese filling for variety.

Vatrushki are best the day they're baked, slightly warm. Because of the fresh cheese filling, don't leave them out for more than 2 hours: once cool, keep them in a closed container in the fridge and eat them within a day. They freeze well baked — thaw and refresh in a low oven. A quick 10-second microwave brings back softness, but eat them straight away.