Zefir (Russian Apple Marshmallow)
Zefir is a light Russian confection — thick apple purée whipped with egg white and set with an agar-sugar syrup into airy, meringue-like rosettes. A descendant of pastila, it sets at room temperature rather than in the fridge, giving a delicate crust outside and a soft, springy centre. Naturally fat-free and gluten-free, it's dusted with powdered sugar and served in sandwiched pairs. The 60 minutes cover the hands-on work only: the purée has to cool completely first, and the piped zefir then dries at room temperature for 6–12 hours — overnight is easiest.
Ingredients
- 500 gapples
- 600 gsugar
- 1 pcsegg white
- 8 gagar
- 150 mlwater
- 2 tbsppowdered sugar
Method
- Halve tart apples and bake at 200°C for about 30 minutes until soft. Scoop out the flesh and sieve it to a smooth, thick purée. A thick purée is essential — watery purée won't hold the foam. Weigh out 250 g of the purée: 500 g of apples gives 250–300 g, and the rest of the recipe is built on exactly 250 g.
- Stir 200 g of the sugar into the 250 g of warm purée and cook 2–3 minutes, stirring, to dissolve, then cool completely. Cold, stiff purée whips much higher.
- Combine the agar with the 150 ml of water in a saucepan, let stand 5 minutes, then bring to a boil. Add the remaining 400 g of sugar and boil to about 110°C, until the syrup falls from the spoon in a thin thread.
- Meanwhile, whip the cold purée with the egg white until white, thick, and roughly doubled.
- With the mixer running, pour the hot agar syrup into the purée in a thin stream, avoiding the beaters. Whip for 3–5 minutes more, until the mass is glossy and very stiff and the whisk leaves clear ridges; the bowl should still feel warm. Pipe at once — agar starts to set when the mass cools to around 40°C.
- Transfer to a piping bag and pipe about 40 rosettes, each about 5 cm across, onto baking paper. Leave uncovered at room temperature for 6–12 hours until the surface is dry to the touch and forms a light crust.
- Dust with powdered sugar and press the flat sides of two rosettes together to make whole zefir — about 20 pairs. Three or four halves (roughly 75 g) make one of the 12 servings.
FAQ
Agar, a plant-based setting agent from seaweed, is the classic choice for zefir: it sets firmly at room temperature and gives the springy, slightly crisp bite that defines the confection. Gelatin can be used as a substitute, but it sets softer, needs chilling, and produces a chewier, more marshmallow-like texture. Agar also sets much faster, which is why you pipe zefir the moment it's whipped. It's the plant origin that keeps traditional zefir vegetarian-friendly.
The usual causes are a too-thin apple purée, an under-cooked syrup, or too little agar. The purée must be thick enough to stand on a spoon; reduce it further if it's runny. The agar syrup must reach the thread stage, around 110°C, or it won't gel. And because agar sets fast, slow piping lets the mass firm in the bowl. Weigh the agar accurately — even a gram or two too little leaves it soft.
Tart, high-pectin apples such as antonovka or Granny Smith are ideal: the acidity balances the sugar and the pectin supports the structure. Baking concentrates both. Other thick fruit purées work well too — blackcurrant, plum, raspberry, and apricot are all popular, often blended with some apple purée for the pectin. Whatever fruit you use, the purée must be dense; watery berry purées should be cooked down first.
Zefir contains no fat and no flour, so it is naturally gluten-free; the base is fruit, sugar, and a little egg white. For a vegan version, replace the egg white with aquafaba (whipped chickpea water), which foams similarly — the agar and fruit stay the same. It is a sugar-based sweet — about 50 g of sugar in a serving — so treat it as a treat, not a health food.
Keep zefir in a closed container in a cool, dry place, away from moisture, for up to a week; the light crust that forms during setting helps protect the soft interior. Don't refrigerate it — the fridge dries it out and can make it weep. In humid weather it may soften and go sticky, so seal it well. Dust with fresh powdered sugar before serving rather than in advance, as the sugar dissolves over time.
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