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Libum (Ancient Roman Cheese Cake) with ricotta, flour and egg — Italy recipe
Italy · Flour and Confectionery Products · Vegetarian

Libum (Ancient Roman Cheese Cake)

Libum is an ancient Roman cheese cake: fresh ricotta, a little flour and an egg, shaped into a flat disc, baked on bay leaves and eaten hot with honey. Cato the Elder wrote the recipe down in De Agri Cultura around 160 BCE, and it has not changed since — three ingredients, one method. Romans offered it to the household gods, the lares and penates, and ate it themselves on ordinary days. Served hot with honey, it turns from a plain dense cake into something that tastes unmistakably of antiquity. The 50 minutes cover shaping and baking; wet ricotta needs 30 to 60 minutes to drain first.

50 min 500 kcal 4 serves Medium🌿Vegetarian🇮🇹Italy Jump to recipe★★★★★4.6· 7 reviews
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What Is Libum?

Libum is a baked cake of fresh cheese, flour and egg from the Roman Republic. Cato the Elder recorded it in De Agri Cultura around 160 BC, and his instructions still work as written: pound the cheese smooth in a mortar, work in the flour and an egg, shape a round, lay it on leaves and bake it under a cover. Cato gives two pounds of cheese to one pound of flour, or only half a pound of finer flour if you want it more tender; this recipe follows the tender version, four parts cheese to one, which is why the result is dense and dairy heavy rather than bready. Romans offered libum to the household gods, the lares and penates, and ate it as everyday food too. Whether you call it a cheese flatbread or the ancient Roman cheesecake depends on what you compare it with. It is shaped and baked like a flatbread, but the cheese-to-flour ratio and the habit of pouring warm honey over it put the flavour closer to a rustic cheesecake.

Libum vs Savillum

Cato gives two cheese cakes in the same book, and people mix them up. Libum is a firm dough shaped by hand, baked on bay leaves, with no sweetener in it; Cato's chapter on libum does not mention honey at all. Savillum is a loose batter with honey mixed in, baked in a greased dish, then glazed with more honey and poppy seeds while it is still hot.

In practice that means libum slices into wedges and can go either way, savoury with olives or sweet with honey poured over it at the table. Savillum is a dessert from the first step and gets eaten from the dish with a spoon. If you searched for a Roman cheesecake with a honey glaze, savillum is the one you want. If you want the plain ritual cake that Cato describes shaping by hand, this is it.

Ingredients

ServingsMetric
  • 600 gfresh unsalted ricotta
  • 150 gspelt or wheat flour
  • 1 egg
  • 8 fresh bay leaves
  • 4 tbsphoney for serving
  • 1 tbspolive oil for the pan

Method

  1. Drain the ricotta. If the ricotta is wet, place it in a fine-mesh sieve or wrap in cheesecloth and leave over a bowl for 30 to 60 minutes. Excess moisture makes the dough too soft to hold its shape. The ricotta should be firm enough to hold a spoon impression. This step is the most important preparation in the recipe.
    Ricotta for libum draining in a cheesecloth-lined sieve over a bowl
  2. Work the cheese. Transfer the drained ricotta to a deep bowl or stone mortar. Following Cato's instruction — 'bray well in a mortar' — work the cheese with a pestle or the back of a wooden spoon until it becomes a completely smooth, plastic mass with no lumps. This takes 2 to 3 minutes. The cheese must be uniform before any flour is added.
    Drained ricotta worked smooth with a pestle in a stone mortar for libum
  3. Make the dough. Add the spelt or wheat flour to the cheese gradually, working it in with your hands. Add the egg. Knead for 3 to 4 minutes until a cohesive, slightly sticky dough forms. The dough will be denser than bread dough and noticeably wetter. Do not add more flour to compensate: 600 g of cheese to 150 g of flour is four parts to one, Cato's more tender version (he gives one pound of flour to two pounds of cheese, or half a pound of fine flour if you want the cake more tender). That wet dough is what makes libum what it is. A drier dough produces bread, not libum.
    Spelt flour and egg kneaded into the ricotta to a dense, sticky libum dough
  4. Shape. Lightly flour your hands. Turn the dough out and shape into a flat round disc approximately 14 cm in diameter and 2.5 to 3 cm thick. Libum is a flat sacrificial cake, not a loaf. Keep it low and even.
    Libum dough shaped into a flat round disc about 14 cm across
  5. Prepare and bake. Preheat the oven to 200 C. Lightly oil a baking dish or cast-iron pan with olive oil. Arrange the fresh bay leaves on the bottom — they will perfume the underside of the cake as it bakes. Place the libum on the leaves. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes until the surface is deep golden-brown and firm to the touch. The underside should carry the faint imprint of the leaves.
    Libum baked on fresh bay leaves until deep golden and firm to the touch
  6. Serve with honey. Warm the honey in a small pan or microwave until fully liquid. Remove the libum from the oven and immediately pour the warm honey over the hot surface. The hot cake absorbs honey more deeply than a cooled one. Remove and discard the bay leaves before serving. Cut into wedges and serve at once. Libum is at its best in the first 10 minutes after baking.

FAQ

Libum is one of the oldest surviving written recipes in Western culinary history. It was recorded by Cato the Elder in De Agri Cultura around 160 BCE, and the original Latin text has been preserved complete. This is not a reconstruction or interpretation: the recipe specifies three ingredients and one technique. The bay leaves beneath the cake and the cheese-flour-egg dough are exactly as Cato wrote them; the warm honey poured over at serving is a later, common finish, borrowed from the closely related savillum. An ancient Roman recipe from the cuisine of the Roman Republic that can be cooked at home without any adaptation to the original method.

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Comments (1)

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  • Sergei Martynov✍ Author
    185d ago

    Oven thermometers don't lie — your oven dial probably does. Mine runs 15°C hot, which explained years of slightly overbaked results. For libum the true 200°C matters: hotter and the bay leaves scorch before the centre sets.