Khao Soi (Northern Thai Coconut Curry Noodle Soup)

Several things set khao soi apart. It is a noodle soup rather than a rice-based curry — egg noodles are served submerged in the broth, not alongside it. It originates from Northern Thailand, not Bangkok, and reflects Burmese and Yunnan Chinese culinary influences from old trade routes. The broth is flavoured heavily with turmeric (giving it a golden colour) and warm spices like coriander and sometimes black cardamom — different from the lemongrass-forward Bangkok curries. And crucially, it is served with crispy fried noodles on top, which is unique to this dish.

Yes, with a trade-off. Bone-in chicken pieces braised in the broth for 30 minutes make the broth noticeably richer and more complex — the bones and skin release gelatin and fat into the liquid. Pre-cooked or rotisserie chicken skips the braising and requires you to compensate with extra stock. If using cooked chicken: shred it and add it to the finished broth 5 minutes before serving just to warm through. Use a good chicken stock (not water) and add a splash of fish sauce and a teaspoon of extra curry paste to deepen the flavour.

Pickled mustard greens (pak dong in Thai, chai poh in Chinese) are a fermented vegetable condiment with a sour, slightly salty, crunchy texture. They provide the acidic counterpoint that cuts through the richness of the coconut broth — the same function that lime plays, but with more depth and texture. They are sold in cans or pouches at Asian supermarkets, often in the Thai or Chinese aisle. Rinse them briefly before serving to remove excess brine. If unavailable, a small amount of sauerkraut (drained) provides a similar fermented sour note, or simply increase the lime at the table.

Fresh or dried Chinese-style egg noodles — wheat noodles made with egg, similar to wonton noodles or Hong Kong-style noodles. The same noodle does double duty: most of it is boiled and placed in the bowl, while a small portion is deep-fried into crispy curls for the top. Ramen noodles (fresh or dried) are an excellent substitute and widely available. Rice noodles are not traditional — the wheat and egg in the noodle provide a slightly richer chew that works better with the coconut broth than rice noodles do.

Yes. Replace the chicken with firm or extra-firm tofu (pan-fried first until golden) or a mix of shiitake mushrooms and pumpkin or squash. Replace fish sauce with soy sauce (use a little less as it is saltier) or a vegan fish sauce made from seaweed and soy. Use vegetable stock instead of chicken stock. The broth flavour will be slightly lighter without the chicken bones and fat, but a good-quality vegetable stock and a generous hand with the curry paste and coconut milk will produce an excellent result.