ItalyThe brine is the technique that separates Ligurian focaccia from every other flatbread. Saltwater poured into the dimples keeps the surface moist in the first part of baking — it essentially poaches the top of the dough while the olive oil fries the bottom. As the water evaporates, the oil takes over and the surface tightens and colors. Without the brine, the top bakes dry and pale before the bottom crisps. It's a genuinely clever technique and it's the main reason home focaccia usually disappoints.
Use a metal baking tray, not glass or ceramic. Metal conducts heat directly to the dough and fries the bottom. Dark metal is better than light metal. And don't skimp on oil in the pan — the bottom of good focaccia is essentially fried in olive oil, not just greased.
Focaccia
By Sergei Martynov
A high-hydration dough stretched into a generously oiled baking tray, dimpled deep with fingers so the pockets hold brine and olive oil, then baked at high heat until the bottom fries crisp and the top turns deep gold. Focaccia from Liguria — with sea salt and rosemary — is the version everyone copies and almost no one gets quite right at home. The brine is the technique most people miss.
What you'll need
Ingredients
- 500 g
See recipes with bread flour or strong all-purpose flourbread flour or strong all-purpose flour
i - 7 g
See recipes with instant yeastinstant yeast (2¼ tsp, 1 sachet)
i - 10 g
See recipes with fine saltfine salt
i - 400 ml
See recipes with warm waterwarm water (around 35°C)
i - 80 ml
See recipes with extra virgin olive oilextra virgin olive oil (for the dough)
i - 60 mlSee recipes with extra virgin olive oil
extra virgin olive oil (for the pan and dimpling)
i - 120 mlSee recipes with water
water (for the brine)
i - 5 gSee recipes with fine salt
fine salt (for the brine, 1 tsp)
i - See recipes with flaky sea salt
flaky sea salt
i 
See recipes with fresh rosemary sprigsfresh rosemary sprigs
i
How to make it
Instructions
- 1
In a large bowl combine flour, yeast, and salt. Add the warm water and 80 ml of olive oil. Mix until no dry flour remains — use a spatula or your hand. The dough will be very sticky and wet. Do not add more flour. Cover and let rise at room temperature 2–3 hours until roughly doubled and bubbly, or overnight in the refrigerator (8–16 hours) for deeper flavor.
- 2
Pour 30 ml of olive oil onto a 23×33 cm metal baking tray. Tip the dough onto the tray and gently stretch it with oiled hands toward the edges. If it springs back, cover and rest 10 minutes, then try again. Don't force it. Let it rest in the tray 30–45 minutes until puffy.
- 3
Make the brine: dissolve 5 g of salt in 120 ml of water. Set aside. Preheat oven to 230°C (450°F).
- 4
Dimple the dough: drizzle the remaining 30 ml of olive oil over the surface. Oil your fingertips generously. Press firmly straight down into the dough all the way to the bottom of the pan, pulling your fingers slightly as you go to create deep pockets across the entire surface. Don't be timid — the dimples must be deep.
- 5
Pour the brine evenly over the dough so it pools in the dimples. Scatter fresh rosemary over the top. The surface will look wet and puddled — this is correct. Sprinkle with flaky sea salt.
- 6
Bake on the lowest rack for 20–25 minutes until the surface is deep golden and the edges are brown and pulling away from the pan. Lift one corner to check the bottom — it should be golden and slightly crispy, not white. Remove immediately onto a wire rack. Drizzle with one more tablespoon of good olive oil while still hot.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the saltwater brine for in focaccia — why pour water on the dough before baking?
The brine performs a specific function in Ligurian focaccia: it keeps the top of the dough moist during the first stage of baking. As the oven heat evaporates the water, it slows browning on the surface — the top essentially poaches in salt water while the oil underneath fries the bottom. Once the water evaporates the oil takes over, the surface tightens and colors deeply. Without the brine, the top dries out and browns before the bottom has crisped.
Why is my homemade focaccia flat and dense instead of thick and airy with big bubbles?
Usually one of three causes: the dough didn't rise long enough (it needs to be visibly bubbly and soft before going into the pan), too much flour was added when handling the dough (use oiled hands, not floured ones — focaccia dough should stay very sticky), or the dough was deflated when stretching it into the pan. Stretch gently, don't press down hard. The large bubbles come from fermentation — trust the rise time.
Can you make focaccia without overnight refrigeration — is same-day focaccia as good?
Same-day focaccia (2–3 hours total rise at room temperature) is good but noticeably less flavorful than the overnight version. Cold fermentation develops complexity the same way it does in no-knead bread. For a same-day version increase the yeast slightly (to 10 g), use warmer water (40°C), and give the dough a warm spot to rise. It won't match the overnight version but works well.
How do you get a crispy bottom on focaccia — mine always comes out soft and pale underneath?
Four factors: use a metal pan not glass or ceramic; use enough olive oil (3–4 tablespoons — the bottom should be sitting in oil, not just lightly greased); bake on the lowest rack of the oven; and bake long enough. Lift the corner and check it's golden before pulling it out. Dark metal pans give better results than light ones.
What toppings work best on focaccia and when do you add them?
Classic Ligurian focaccia uses only rosemary, flaky salt, and olive oil — simplicity is intentional. For other toppings add them during dimpling, before the brine, so they press into the dough and stay in place. Cherry tomatoes, kalamata olives, sliced red onion, garlic cloves, and fresh thyme all work well. Thinly sliced potato with rosemary is a Ligurian classic. Add cheese only in the last 5 minutes of baking or it burns. Never add fresh basil before baking — toss it on right when the focaccia comes out of the oven.
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