Tofu Pad Thai

Soak flat rice noodles for pad thai in warm (not boiling) water for 20 to 30 minutes until they're pliable — they should bend easily without snapping but still have some firmness and resistance to the bite. Boiling water over-softens them before they even reach the wok, and they'll fall apart when stir-fried. Too short a soak leaves them stiff and they won't absorb the sauce. Check readiness by bending one noodle: it should fold cleanly in half without breaking. After soaking, drain well and use kitchen scissors to cut the noodles in half — shorter lengths are much easier to toss in the wok.

Tamarind is the defining flavour of pad thai. It provides a sour, fruity, slightly complex acidity that no single ingredient replicates exactly. Without it, the dish is a different thing — still good, but not pad thai. The closest substitute: 1 tablespoon tamarind = 2 teaspoons lime juice + 1 teaspoon brown sugar + 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce. Or: 1 tablespoon rice vinegar + a pinch of brown sugar for the sourness. The honest advice: find tamarind paste at an Asian grocery or online. It keeps for months and completely transforms the result. Note: Thai-style tamarind paste is looser and milder than Indian tamarind concentrate — if using the Indian version, use half the quantity stated in the recipe.

Soft tofu in a stir-fry usually comes down to three things. First, the wrong tofu: only extra-firm tofu has a low enough water content to crisp. Silken or soft tofu will never brown properly. Second, not pressed dry enough: wrap the block in paper towels and press under a heavy board for at least 15 minutes — the more water removed, the better the crust. Third, wok too cool or too crowded: the pan must be hot enough to sear, not steam. Add the tofu cubes in a single layer with space between each one and don't stir for the first 2 to 3 minutes. For an even better crust, toss the pressed tofu cubes in 1 teaspoon of cornflour before frying.

A carbon steel or cast iron wok over the highest heat your burner can produce is the ideal tool because it holds very high temperatures and has the surface area to stir-fry without steaming. At home, the largest, heaviest skillet you own — cast iron or carbon steel — works acceptably. The critical rule is not overcrowding: cook a maximum of two portions at a time. More than that and the ingredients release moisture faster than it evaporates, turning the dish into a braise. The pan must be smoking hot before the oil goes in. A thin non-stick pan is the worst option — it can't hold the heat needed and warps at the temperatures required.

Traditional pad thai contains eggs and fish sauce, so it's not vegan as usually made. To make it fully plant-based: skip the eggs or replace with crumbled silken tofu tossed with a little turmeric (for colour) and nutritional yeast (for umami). Replace fish sauce with vegan fish sauce (available in Asian shops) or a combination of soy sauce and a small piece of dried seaweed (kombu or nori) simmered briefly to add oceanic umami. The remaining ingredients — rice noodles, tamarind, palm sugar, tofu, bean sprouts, peanuts, lime — are naturally vegan. The result is slightly milder than the fish sauce version but good seaweed-based substitutes bring enough depth to make a genuinely satisfying bowl.