JapanThe meringue is the soul of this cake. Three points are critical. First: the bowl and whisk must be completely fat-free — any trace of egg yolk or grease prevents a stable foam. Second: stop at soft peaks, not stiff. Stiff whites fold awkwardly, create irregular bubbles, and cause cracking. The tip should curl over gently — satiny and glossy. Third: fold efficiently, not cautiously. Thirty to forty confident strokes is enough. Excessive folding deflates the air that makes the cake rise.
Temperature is the other variable that decides the outcome. Too high and the surface sets before the interior is ready — pressure builds and the top cracks. 160C for the first 25 minutes, 140C for the rest. Fan ovens run hot — reduce both temperatures by 10C and add 5 to 10 minutes. The cake is done when it jiggles as a unit. Leaving it in the switched-off oven with the door ajar prevents the sudden temperature drop that causes sinking and collapse.
Japanese Cheesecake (Cotton Soufflé Cheesecake)
By Sergei Martynov
A cloud-light hybrid of cheesecake and soufflé: cream cheese melted into a smooth batter, egg whites whipped to soft peaks and folded in, baked in a water bath at low temperature. The result jiggles when you shake the tin. Not sweet in the American sense — lightly tangy from cream cheese with a breath of lemon. First created at the Plaza Hotel in Osaka. Best warm from the oven for the jiggle, or chilled overnight when it becomes denser and creamier.
What you'll need
Ingredients
- 250 g
See recipes with full-fat cream cheesefull-fat cream cheese, at room temperature
i - 60 g
See recipes with unsalted butterunsalted butter
i - 80 ml
See recipes with whole milkwhole milk
i - 6
See recipes with eggseggs, separated — keep whites cold
i - 120 g
See recipes with caster sugar — 60 g for battercaster sugar — 60 g for batter, 60 g for meringue
i - 60 g
See recipes with cake flourcake flour (or plain flour)
i - 20 g
See recipes with cornstarchcornstarch
i - 1
See recipes with lemon — zest and juicelemon — zest and juice (about 2 tbsp juice)
i - 0.25 tspSee recipes with cream of tartar — or substitute 1 tsp lemon juice
cream of tartar — or substitute 1 tsp lemon juice
i - 2 tbsp
See recipes with apricot jam + 1 tbsp warm water — for glazeapricot jam + 1 tbsp warm water — for glaze (optional)
i
How to make it
Instructions
- 1
Prepare the tin and water bath. Preheat oven to 160C (320F). Line only the bottom of a 20 cm round cake tin with parchment — leave the sides bare so the batter grips them as it rises. If using a springform, wrap the outside tightly in two layers of foil. Place a roasting tray on the middle shelf and fill with 2 to 3 cm of hot water.
- 2
Make the cream cheese base. Combine cream cheese, butter, and milk in a heatproof bowl over barely simmering water. Stir until completely smooth and lump-free. Remove from heat. Whisk in the egg yolks one at a time. Add 60 g of the sugar and whisk until combined. Sift in the cake flour and cornstarch and fold until smooth. Stir in the lemon zest and juice. For an ultra-smooth batter, strain through a fine sieve. Set aside to cool slightly.
- 3
Whip the meringue to soft peaks. The bowl and whisk must be completely dry and grease-free — wipe with vinegar or lemon juice before use. Beat the cold egg whites with cream of tartar until foamy. On medium speed, add the remaining 60 g sugar in three additions. Continue until the meringue holds soft, glossy peaks — the tip curls over gently when the whisk is lifted. Stop here. Do not beat to stiff peaks.
- 4
Fold and bake. Whisk one quarter of the meringue into the cream cheese base to lighten it. Pour the lightened base into the remaining meringue and fold with a spatula — cut through the centre, sweep up the sides — about 30 to 40 folds until no white streaks remain but the batter is still airy and voluminous. Pour into the prepared tin. Tap gently on the counter to release large air bubbles. Set inside the water bath. Bake 25 minutes at 160C.
- 5
Reduce and finish. Lower oven to 140C (280F) without opening the door. Bake a further 40 to 50 minutes until the top is golden and the cake jiggles as a whole — not just at the centre. Switch off the oven, open the door a crack with a wooden spoon, and leave the cake inside 15 minutes. Cool in the tin 10 minutes, then unmould. Brush the warm top with warmed apricot glaze if using. Serve warm for the jiggle, or refrigerate overnight for a denser, creamier texture.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why did the top of my cheesecake crack?
Cracking is almost always caused by oven temperature that is too high. The surface sets before the interior expands, pressure builds, and the top splits. Other causes: meringue beaten to stiff peaks; baking without a water bath; opening the oven door in the first 25 minutes. Fix: reduce temperature by 10C; use soft peaks only; ensure the bain-marie water is 2 to 3 cm deep; do not open the door.
Why did the cheesecake collapse or sink after coming out?
Some deflation — 10 to 15% loss of height — is completely normal. Large collapse is caused by: cooling too quickly (always rest in the oven with the door ajar for 15 minutes before removing); under-baking (the cake should jiggle as a whole unit, not slosh liquidly at the centre); or over-folding which deflates the meringue before baking.
What is the difference between soft peaks and stiff peaks?
Soft peaks: the tip of meringue droops gently when the whisk is lifted. The surface is glossy and smooth. Soft-peak whites still have elasticity and fold smoothly into the batter. Stiff peaks: the tip stands straight up. Stiff whites have lost elasticity, fold with difficulty, create large uneven bubbles, and produce a cake prone to cracking. For this cheesecake, stop just before the tip becomes rigid.
Can I make this in a springform pan?
Yes, but wrap the outside thoroughly in two to three layers of heavy-duty foil before placing in the water bath — water that seeps into the base will make the bottom wet and soggy. A solid-base round tin is easier. If using a springform, run a thin knife around the edge before releasing the ring to prevent tearing the delicate cake.
Why does the cheesecake taste better the next day?
Fresh from the oven, the cake is at peak jiggle — almost soufflé-light, warm, and very delicate. After a night in the refrigerator, the structure firms, the cream cheese flavour deepens and becomes more pronounced, and the texture shifts from cloud-like to something between a mousse and a classic cheesecake. Both versions are correct — they are simply different desserts from the same bake. Many Japanese bakeries sell it chilled for exactly this denser, creamier version.
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