Knafeh with Pistachios and Orange Blossom

Akkawi is the traditional choice: a mild white brined cheese that melts and stretches without turning oily. Because it's sold in brine, it needs soaking in several changes of cold water for a few hours to remove the salt. Nabulsi is the other classic option. If neither is available, low-moisture block mozzarella is the standard substitute, often mixed with a little ricotta for softness. Avoid fresh mozzarella in water, which releases too much liquid.

Kataifi is phyllo dough extruded into fine strands that look like shredded wheat, sold frozen in coils at Middle Eastern and Greek shops. Thaw it fully, then pull the strands apart with your fingers so they're loose and separate before buttering, or you'll get dense clumps. Some Palestinian versions use a fine semolina dough instead, which gives a smoother, cake-like crust rather than a crisp shredded one.

It's about contrast in temperature. Pouring cold syrup over pastry straight from the oven lets the sugar soak in quickly while the hot strands stay crisp — the same principle used in baklava. If both are hot, or both cool, the pastry absorbs slowly and softens into something heavy and damp. Make the syrup first so it has time to chill completely, and pour it on within a minute of taking the knafeh out.

Remember that the knafeh is inverted before serving, so the base of the tin becomes the presentation surface. Press that first layer firmly and evenly, use enough ghee, and bake until you can lift an edge and see deep golden colour underneath. If the top is browning much faster than the base, lower the shelf. For extra colour, some cooks whisk a pinch of kunafa food colouring into the melted ghee.

Knafeh is at its best within the first twenty minutes, while the cheese still stretches and the pastry is crisp, so it isn't a make-ahead dessert in the usual sense. You can, however, assemble it unbaked and refrigerate it for a few hours, then bake just before serving. Leftovers keep in the fridge for a day or two; reheat them in a hot oven or toaster oven rather than a microwave, which turns the strands soft.